Khao Kha Moo at Chang Phueak Gate, Chiang Mai: Where, When and What to Order
Where to eat khao kha moo (stewed pork leg rice) at Chang Phueak Gate in Chiang Mai: how to get there, when to go, how to order and what else to eat nearby.
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Last updated November 2026: khao kha moo Chang Phueak means stewed pork-leg rice from the night food area outside Chang Phueak Gate, on the north side of Chiang Mai's Old City. Expect pork chopped to order over rice, served with an egg and pickled greens. If you are still planning other meals, start with our Chiang Mai food guide.
Featured image: Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
What Khao Kha Moo Is
Khao kha moo (also spelled khao kha mu) is braised pork leg served over rice. In Thai script it is ข้าวขาหมู. The leg is briefly seared, then simmered in a broth usually flavored with anise, coriander, five-spice, soy sauce, palm or brown sugar and cinnamon. Cooks chop the meat to order, so each plate arrives warm and glossy.
It is a different dish from khao soi, the curry noodle soup that most visitors associate with the north. Khao kha moo is a rice plate with a sweet-savory braise, not a noodle bowl. If you want to cook a version at home, a Chiang Mai cooking class is the easier route than copying a street cauldron.
Where to Find Khao Kha Moo at Chang Phueak Gate
Chang Phueak Gate (Pratu Chang Phueak) is the north gate of the Old City. The food area sits just north of the moat, outside the gate, and sets up at night. It is separate from the Chang Phueak Market area and the bus station, so do not confuse them when you give directions.
The stall best known for pork leg rice here is run by a vendor nicknamed the Cowboy Hat Lady. A 2018 visitor account described her stewing the leg in a large pot of spiced broth and serving it with an egg and pickled green vegetables. Vendors and stall line-ups change over time. Treat the nickname as a way to ask locals, not a guarantee that she is still at the same spot.
When to Go and How Long to Plan
Stalls at Chang Phueak set up in the evening, and no current opening hours or closed days are published. Check recent map listings or ask your accommodation on the day you plan to go.
How to Order and What You Get
Walk up, point at the pork leg pot and say khao kha moo. Showing ข้าวขาหมู on your phone works just as well. Your plate arrives as rice topped with chopped pork leg, an egg and a side of pickled greens.
Most stalls put condiments on the table, so season to taste after the first bite. Watch how the cook handles the pork. Meat chopped from the pot and plated straight away is what you want.
This is a pork dish through and through. If someone in your group avoids pork, order from a different stall in the same food area instead of asking for a swap.
What It Costs
No current baht price is published for this stall. Look for a price board or ask before the plate is chopped.
What Else to Eat Nearby
A stall called Suki Koka was reported here in 2018. It served Thai-style suki as a stir-fry, not a hot pot. The plate had napa cabbage, pork, soft egg curds and glass noodles, with a dipping sauce on the side.
Stall names rotate, so walk the row before you commit. Look for the busiest wok, a short menu and food cooked after you order. For a broader night-food overview, see our Chiang Mai street food guide.
- Pork leg rice: braised, chopped to order, with an egg and pickled greens
- Stir-fried suki: cabbage, pork, egg curds and glass noodles
- Anything else sizzling at the gate: pick the stall with the longest line
Chang Phueak Compared With Other Northern Dinners
Use this table to decide whether a casual street plate or a sit-down meal fits your evening. Cells say "Varies" where costs or hours are not published.
| Option | Dish | Setting | Budget level | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chang Phueak Gate stalls | Braised pork leg over rice | Outdoor, evening street food | Varies by stall | Casual late meal near the Old City |
| Khao soi shops | Curry noodle soup | Cafe or shop seating | Varies by shop | Northern signature dish |
| Khantoke dinner | Set northern Thai meal with performance | Seated venue | Varies by venue | A structured, sit-down evening |
| Other street-food areas | Mixed snacks and grills | Outdoor stalls or markets | Varies by stall | Sampling several dishes |
Who Should Skip It, and Alternatives
Skip this stop if you avoid pork, want air conditioning or need a guaranteed seat. Vegetarians will find little here. A vegetarian cooking class is a better fit for meat-free northern food.
If you would rather not order unaided, join a guided food tour that explains each dish. For the other signature northern plate, see our guide to the best khao soi. For a seated evening with northern Thai set dishes, try a khantoke dinner. The Michelin Guide's Chiang Mai listings cover indoor restaurants.
For street-food hygiene, pick a busy stall with fast turnover and food cooked or reheated until steaming in front of you.
Getting There From the Old City and Sunday Walking Street
From inside the Old City, head to the north side and leave through Chang Phueak Gate. The food area is just across the moat. If you arrive by Grab or songthaew, ask for Pratu Chang Phueak and walk the last stretch to find the stalls.
After the Sunday Walking Street, one visitor account described continuing to the north gate for a second dinner. Expect crowds on Sundays and plan a different night if you want a quieter meal.
Thai food notes for your next trip
Optional updates to our food guides.
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